An “in word” among some academic viticulturists (but not commercial wine people or the wine drinking public). Cultivar originally was intended to mean a “cultivated variety,” but is now in such regular use that some say the word for varieties that are not cultivated, as well. Since this can be misleading and is, in any case, superfluous, many texts on viticulture do not use the term widely. Nevertheless, you still hear it spoken with an impressive voice in the highest teaching circles. Use of this term is yet another way for you to gain a little “one-upmanship” among your wine friends if you can pull it off. Say it with a somber and slightly hushed tone, eyes slightly down, preferably while holding your hands in front with each of the fingertips on one hand touching the tips of the corresponding fingers on the other hand. They’ll think you know.